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 Hopefully EVERYTHING you'll need to know.

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Lovingly Depressed[ADMIN]
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Posts : 58
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Join date : 2010-01-26
Age : 26
Location : Austin TX

PostSubject: Hopefully EVERYTHING you'll need to know.   Tue Feb 16, 2010 9:50 pm

Forum Related:


* Cursing is allowed, minimally, if not used to insult others.
* Gore/Descriptive Mating/etc should be kept off of the site.
* If you stretch the board, your post may be deleted/modified so that
it no longer is. This includes Signatures. Mod's have every right to
edit signatures.
* Disrespect of Any kind may result in a 2 day banishment
* Do not engage in religious or racist debate. To prevent this, talk of offensive materials is prohibited.
* Do not impersonate staff. If someone is claiming to be Mods/Admin and
you are not sure if they are, please check the mod list at the bottom.


RP Related:

* Do not Godmod/Powerplay/Etc
* No 1-liners.
* Wolf script [ex: fae, brute, tassle, etc.] is strictly prohibited.
Use words that have actual meaning- words that are in dictionaries.
>_>;
* Do not use other character names. We can only have one "Shooter" and one "Paws". Unless a character dies, don't use it.
* We work on "semi-liquid" time. Meaning your character can be in more than one post at a time, but only up to 3 posts.
* You can have as many characters as you wish, but if one of your
characters falls into inactivity it will be deleted. Keep All of your
own characters in a post designated to you.
Its fine if another person comes into the RP, but please try to keep the order so another RPer isn't kicked out of the RP.
* Correct grammar, spelling, and punctuation is expected of all members.


Character Related:

* All character Information MUST BE realistic. Do a little research.
* Character pictures MUST be credited properly. I will be checking.
* Yes, overall Females are weaker than males. Especially when it comes to fighting for dominance.
* You must apply and be accepted before you can post. If a moderator or
admin has not accepted (or rejected/commented on) your character in 3
days' time, you may roleplay with it without permission.


Breaking Rules Related:

* You get 3 warnings, then you are banned for 2 days.
* If you continue breaking rules, you will be banned for a month.
* Continuance will result in total banning.


Dog Reference!

The Towline or Gangline
connects the dogs dogs to the sled. The most common style of towline
(or gangline) is the Tandem Hitch. Every race requires that this type
of hitch be used because it is a safe, simple, and very functional
means of harnessing the power of a dog team and transferring that power
to pulling a sled.
Mainline (Center line) This is
the central line that runs the length of the team from the leaders to
the sled. This part of the towline is usually made of 3/8" or 1/2"
thick rope and reinforced with steel cable.
Tug line This is the line that connects the dog's harness to the mainline.
Neckline This is the line that
connects the dog's collar to the mainline. This line is important as a
safety measure because it prevents a dog from going too far out to the
side and potentially going the wrong way around a tree or obstacle in
the trail. If a dog were to go the wrong way around an obstacle or
tree, the snap on the neckline is designed to break away, allowing the
musher time to react and stop the team and move the dog to the correct
side of the obstacle.
Leader Lines The center line
ends at the swing dogs' necklines. From there, two tug lines extend
forward to connect the leaders. A neckline not attached to the rest of
the towline is then used to connect the collars of the two lead dogs.
Shock Cord This is essentially
a gigantic rubber band that is place between the sled and the rest of
the towline. If the sled stops suddenly or hits a tree, the shock cord
absorbs the impact and prevents the impact from jarring the dogs. A
safety line accompanies the rubber band and acts as a stretch limiter.
Alaskan Husky
The modern racing dog. A mixed breed that has Malamute, Siberian Husky,
Hound, Pointer and countless other breeds mixed in through the
generations. Alaskan huskies are direct descendants of the original
northern breed sled dogs that have worked with their human counterparts
in the North Country for 6,000 years.
Basket Sled The more
traditional style of dog sled. The cargo bed is made of wooden slats
that run parallel to the runners, but are elevated off the top of the
runners by about 6 inches. The advantage to this sled is that wind can
pass both under and above the sled, cutting down drag when running in
high winds. Additionally, basket sleds are faster on trails with just a
few inches of fresh, new snow on top of a packed base because the cargo
bed isn't dragging in the fresh snow.
Brake A two-clawed metal bar that the musher stands on to slow the team. Used in unison with the Track.
Brush Bow Being the very foremost part of the sled, its main purpose is to deflect the sled when it comes in contact with trees.
Booties A nylon paw covering
similar to a sock that protects the dogs’ feet in abrasive snow
conditions. A Velcro strap wraps around the top of the boot to secure
it.
Chinook Wind A southerly wind that usually brings warm weather.
Dog jackets or coats Insulated
and usually windproof coats that cover the back and sides of the dogs.
The jackets are typically used only when the dogs are resting. They are
a means to help the dogs conserve energy, but they are not essential
for a dog to survive in the cold. When the temperatures are extremely
cold (-40oF) or the winds are very strong (45 MPH), the coats can be
used while the dogs are running, but care must be taken not to overheat
the dogs. Sled dogs are very good at keeping themselves warm, and not
much outside help is needed.
Dropped Dog The term that
describes a dog that has been taken out of a team during the course of
a race. Dogs can be taken out of a team for a number of reasons varying
from the dog being tired to the musher being tired and wanting to care
for fewer dogs.
Handle BarThe sled’s “steering wheel”.
Handler The musher term for a
hired hand. Handlers are often people who are interested in sled dogs
and want to learn more about them by working for an established kennel.
Most handlers work long hours in exchange for room and board, a small
pay check, and a sore back.
Malamute A purebred ancestor of
traditional sled dogs used for pulling heavy loads. The Malamute is too
large and stocky to keep up with the Alaskan Huskies in most styles of
racing.
Musher The term that refers to
insane individuals who enjoy spending countless hours and dollars on
their dogs. The term originates from the French word marche, meaning
"to march." During the gold rushes, anyone who traveled in the North
Country was a "musher," no matter how they traveled. The name stuck
with those who traveled by dog team and fed their dogs "mush."
NecklineThe line that attaches the dogs’ collars to the mainline.
OverflowWater on the surface of
a creek or lake. Overflow is the result of ice getting too heavy,
causing it to sink below the surface of the lake, or the ice freezing
deep enough that water must flow on top to get through.
Pad, Paw One of the toughest
materials known to man—a thick layer of dead skin that covers the toes
and palm region of a dog’s foot. When the dogs are not booted, the pads
are in constant contact with the snow, and this toughness is something
that goes as far back as the breeding.
Samoyed A purebred, white Eskimo dog. Good for pulling large sleds and cold weather survival though not used in racing.
Siberian Husky Very similar to
the Malamute but slightly smaller and more durable. Some teams of
purebred Siberian Huskies still compete in the Iditarod
non-competitively.
Webbing, paw The softer more tender part of the paw deep to and between the pads.
Wrist wraps Neoprene wraps that are placed on the lower part of the dogs' front legs if their wrists ever become stiff or sore.
Hike Up! This is the command to start moving or to go faster. Some mushers also simply say "Okay, Let's Go!" or "All Right!,"
Whoa! The command that the dogs
never really listen to. This means stop. Usually, the brakes must be
applied to attain the desired result.
Gee (pronounced like the letter of the alphabet)This is the command for turning or moving right.
Haw This is the command for turning or moving left.
Straight Ahead Exactly what it implies. Used at intersections or when passing other dog teams or snowmobiles.
Easy Go a little slower, please.
No! Seems to imply yes to most sled dogs.


Dogs in Heat.
Since this is a Dog
Role Play and There may be dogs getting pregnant, i thought i should
leave some notes about how that happens, not to graphic, just... notes.

Dogs Need Constant Vigilence
If you have an un-neutered male dog, be aware of the temptation that a female dog in heat can present to him.
If a female dog in your neighborhood comes into heat, you will need
to be sure your intact male is kept safely within the confines of your
house and property, so he does not wander off in pursuit of female dogs
in heat. If they are not kept home while they are in heat, female dogs
in heat could present potential distractions in parks and other public
areas. Male dogs have been known to follow the scent of a female dog in
heat for miles, so be sure to keep your dog on leash or in a fenced
area to prevent him from escaping and getting lost or injured while
he's away from home.

When are female dogs in heat?
Your unspayed female dog will come into heat for the first time
when she is around 6-12 months old and will come into heat about twice
a year thereafter. You will notice a her vulva swell slightly and she
will excrete a bloody discharge as well. Her heat cycle will last for
approximately 3 weeks after these symptoms begin to occur. During this
time she is receptive to mating with male dogs and they will come from
far and near to try to gain access to her.

The Four Cycles of Dogs in Heat
The typical stages of heat appear in four phases, and the length of
these cycles may fluctuate between dogs. Still, even the same dog can
possess considerable variations in her cycles over the course of her
lifetime.
The cycles of estrus are as follows:
* Proestrus is a 10-day period where a dog will have spotting, or bleeding, from her vaginal area.
* Estrus lasts for 5 to 9 days. At this stage, a dog is ovulating and will accept a mate.
* Diestrus lasts for 6 to 10 weeks. Many hormonal changes will take place in the dog, and her uterine walls will thicken.
* Anestrus usually lasts for 15 weeks. Your dog won't have any
hormonal activity, produce milk or possess an interest in mating.

How to spot a dog in heat:
* Swelling and enlargement of the vulva and v****a.
* Vaginal discharge: beginning as pink liquid then progressing to a bloodier fluid.
* Marking her scent by leaving small amounts of urine.
* Male dogs trying to get near your dog.

Dogs in Heat: False Pregnancy and Spaying
A dog that does not become pregnant during the diestrus stage can
experience false pregnancy. However, she will have symptoms of
pregnancy, such as enlarged mammary glands and milk production. During
this time, a dog may moan, become needy and show possession over her
toys.
A common way to control a dog in heat is to have her spayed. A
spayed dog will not show signs of estrus. If you want your dog to mate,
she may be given hormonal medications to temporarily prevent her heat
cycle from progressing. Additionally, a female dog does not experience
menopause in the traditional sense. She will go through heat during her
entire lifetime. However, the length of time between heat episodes will
increase as she ages.

Understanding When to Breed Your Dog
A female dog is able to become pregnant during the estrus stage.
Pet owners may have trouble distinguishing between the proestrus and
estrus cycles. It may be challenging to determine which stage of the
cycle a dog is at by her behavior alone. If a dog is not accepting a
male, or cannot get pregnant, you many want to monitor her heat stages
more closely.
You can also have your dog tested to better understand her cycles,
and find out when is the ideal time for her to reproduce. A vet can
help you figure out if your dog is at the correct breeding stage. The
animal professional will likely perform a vaginal cytology exam, or
take blood samples to check your dog's progesterone levels.


PSP (Currency) Related!


The Points System can be abbreviated as PSP standing for Points System Points. Below is the price list and conditions if applicable.

Pay for advertisement space in the updates. If you have a service, or would like to advertise referrals for another site please PM me to set that up. The price in PSP is 100PSP

Pay to create a Team of your own. If you would like to create your own Sled Dog Team. This requires a Mod Status (see below) And a heavy application process. The price in PSP is 25 million (compare it to creating a custom Waja. Expensive.)

Pay for user offers around the site. i.e. art work.
If a player is advertising a service or job that they are requiring points for you must both agree to the price and must BOTH pm me with the business deal.

Pay for Moderator status. (Similar to an upgrade)
To gain moderator status, outside the initial 5. The price in PSP is 5000PSP.This change is permanent. Opportunity will end when there are 20 Mods. May open again.

Pay for Upgrade! NEW!
This upgrade lasts 6 weeks, see the thread in the rules section. The price in PSP is 2000PSP

Trade for off site currency. (Wajas.com only at the moment.) Again, this is similar to a business deal. Both parties must contact me with the deal, including the amount of currency being transfered. At this time only Wajas.com Currency is being traded at the following exchange rate:
1WC=5PSP
You can even offer to trade with me!

I am, as of now, starting dog cards! What it is is an entitlement for you to create a new dog. Your first dog is free to create but after words it's 10k PSP.
This is designed to keep the number of dogs per person in check. There will still be a 5 dog maximum.
Those of you who already have more than one dog are exempt from this.



Moderator/Upgrades Reference!

Moderators and Upgraded members are considered elitists. They've either been around for a while and have enough PSP or have the WC to fund their PSP. Either way there are certain things mods and um's can and can't do and should and should not do.

Can/Can't

You can only do what the site will let you. If you are a UM you will notice the difference.

Should/Shouldn't

As a mod/um you should help out around the site. If you see something that's not right, in content or other wise please feel free to contact the member and correct it.
If you'd like to place an ad in the daily updates you get this privilege for free.


--This is not complete. There may be more.--



Updates!
There will be updates every once in a while but to help keep the site running smoothly i will clear out the updates from each month. If there is anything important it will either be added here, as a rule or go in the Archives forum.
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